La Bella Vita Napoli Guide
Explore the best food, drink, and experiences in Napoli!
How to Spend 2 Days in Naples, Italy: A Practical Itinerary
Benvenuti a Napoli! This guide is designed to give you a rough itinerary of suggested things to do and see over two days in Naples, Italy. You may be wondering if it's possible to really experience everything Naples has to offer over two days. Well, you probably won't be mistaken for a native Neapolitan, but you can see a lot of the most famous historic sites available in the city. This guide will prioritize the city of Naples itself, giving you two days' worth of things to see in Centro Storico and the surrounding areas rather than sending you outside the city. We'll start in the historical center on day 1, hitting the major sights as we travel along Spaccanapoli and Via Toledo. On day 2 we'll travel a little farther away, checking out artifacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum before heading up the hill to explore one of Napoli's best neighborhoods.
If you don't want to navigate on your own, or you want more historical details or a slightly different experience than what is below, there are plenty of guided tours around Naples. You can explore the Centro Storico and Spaccanapoli, focus on the unique and delicious food of Naples, or discover the extensive Neapolitan underground.
For anyone who wants to explore Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento, or the outlying islands like Capri, any one of those excursions will take the most, if not all, of a single day. This guide is not going to detail how to get to any of those destinations. Instead, we will focus on the chaotic, flavorful, historic center of Naples herself, from the buildings to the food to panoramic city views. Andiamo!
Morning of Day 1: Start in Piazza del Gesù Nuovo
A great starting spot is the Piazza del Gesù Nuovo. Located near a church of the same name with a distinctive, diamond-patterned stone facade and not far from either the port or the Dante metro stop, this is a logical place to begin your exploration of the Centro Storico. Both the Church of Gesù Nuovo and Monastery of Santa Chiara are worth stopping by, though your visit doesn't need to take long. Then, head down the busy streets of Spaccanapoli, the long, straight stretch of pedestrian roadways lined with shops, restaurants, and churches. Take your time to peruse the shops, walk down any interesting side streets, and experience the vibrant chaos of Naples.
Late Morning of Day 1: See the Veiled Christ
One famous stop to make along the Spaccanapoli route is the Cappella Sansevero, home of the magnificent Veiled Christ marble sculpture. The chapel was initially built by Giovan Francesco di Sangra in the early 17th century. The chapel was extensively expanded by his son, Alessandro di Sangro, turning it into a mausoleum to house his and future burials. In the 1740s Raimondo di Sangro substantially upgraded the chapel again, commissioning multiple sculptures and paintings, including the most famous pieces that remain today. The chapel stands today as a jewel of Baroque design, and should be a priority for art and history enthusiasts. In the center is the Veiled Christ, created by Giuseppe Sanmartino; the statue is a life-sized sculpture of Jesus Christ covered by a transparent shroud carved from the same piece of marble. The first time you see the statue, you won't believe that it is completely marble; the craftsmanship and skill displayed are incredible. It was gained renown the world over, including in 2008 when it was chosen to be the face of a Neapolitan advertising campaign to rehabilitate the city's image.
This chapel is privately owned, and you have to get tickets to enter. You can buy tickets either online or at the ticket office across the street. However, your ticket is only good for an assigned time, and they do sell out, so I highly recommend buying them online ahead of time (https://ticket.museosansevero.it/en/), especially in peak tourist season. An early or mid-morning ticket will go well with this itinerary, since the Cappella is a close walk from Piazza del Gesù Nuovo. If tickets are not available, you won't be able to get in, so you will have more time to explore the Centro Storico and Spaccanapoli. You can also book a guided tour which will give you more background and history.
If you're in Napoli, you have to have a pizza. If this is your first time, I highly recommend an authentic margherita pizza. It's simple (only three ingredients), fresh, and absolutely delicious. There are others you can try (diavola, romana, marinara, etc.) depending on your taste, but you can't go wrong with a simple margherita.
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Everyone who lives in Naples has their personal favorite pizzeria. However, the pizza quality is pretty consistent across the city, so you can bet that most places will serve you a great pizza for about €10. In Centro Storico, the prices may be a little higher to catch tourists, but do not go anywhere that is charging €15 or more. You will get the same or better pizza somewhere else for less. Additionally, the more famous pizzerias will probably have a line around lunchtime, so get there earlier or be ready to wait.
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Two of those famous pizzerias with a queue are:
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L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele: A famous traditional pizzeria with a strong connection to Naples' pizza culture.
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Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali: Another well-known option in the historic center.
Now, not everyone will want pizza, and that is ok. There are plenty of trattorias, street food, and bakeries dotting the Centro Storico. If you are willing to explore a little bit off the main streets, you will find more authentic hole-in-the-wall restaurants with some of the best food you'll ever have in your life. Most places will take credit cards now, but cash (Euros only, please!) is always welcome and often preferred.
One tip for any dine-in restaurants: the server will probably not bring you the check until you ask for it. Italian dining culture expects people to take their time eating, savoring the food and conversation, and they will not rush you out when you're finished. When you're ready, ask for the check and you'll be ready to keep exploring.
Afternoon of Day 1: Via San Gregorio Armeno and the Duomo
After lunch, it's time for some more exploration in Centro Storico. Continue down the Spaccanapoli to Via San Gregorio Armeno. This side street hosts a multitude of artisan workshops, with many of them specializing in traditional nativity sets and figurines. The “pasevere” is the well-known Neapolitan nativity scene tradition, and around the holidays you will see some extremely large and complex displays in churches and museums around the city. The displays themselves have the traditional Christian nativity scene, but also the bustling life outside the inn with a Neapolitan flavor – generally scenes from 1700s Naples, but you may also see scenes with more contemporary figures like Diego Maradona. Also, if you didn't fill up during lunch, find Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle hidden away amongst the shops. You can get a fresh, tasty sfogliatella dessert to keep you going through the rest of the afternoon. Finally, at the northern end of the street near the Basilica San Lorenzo Maggiore you can find several underground tours, where you can see the city under the city dating from Greek and Roman times. I recommend checking the tour times if you want to go; there are one-hour English and Italian tours at specific times.
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Once you've finished around Via San Gregorio Armeno, head to the Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, more simply referred to as “Il Duomo.” This is the main cathedral of Naples with a free entrance. While the outside is not as grand as many other cathedrals in Europe, the inside is absolutely beautiful. You can take a seat in one of the pews and marvel at the ceiling frescoes, walk down into the crypt below the nave, or explore the chapels off to the side of the main passageway. There is also a museum displaying the “Tesoro di San Gennaro,” or treasures of Saint Gennaro. The chapel of San Gennaro is free to enter inside the Duomo, but for €15 you can explore an impressive collection of jewelry, religious objects, sculptures, and paintings. The collection is optional; you don't need to go if you're short on time.
Also near the Duomo is Pio Monte della Misericordia, a former palace-turned-museum that hosts art from some of the most famous Neapolitan artists, especially painters. Any art lovers will enjoy this stop. The most famous work on display is Caravaggio's The Seven Works of Mercy, but the collection has been built over four centuries. Again, this stop is more for the art lovers, and if you're short on time I recommend heading to the stops in the next part of this guide.
Late Afternoon of Day 1: Walk Along Via Toledo
Via Toledo is the next area to explore, and it is one of the busiest streets in all of Naples. You can walk from the Duomo back through Spaccanapoli in the direction you came from, past Piazza del Gesù Nuovo, to Piazza Dante and Via Toledo. Head downhill on Via Toledo and explore the shopping, food, and life along the street.
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As you continue on Via Toledo, the street will switch to a pedestrian zone and you will pass the Toledo metro station. If you have the opportunity, this metro station is an artistic marvel by itself. You would have to buy a ticket to see the best parts, but if you don't mind spending €1.30 and riding up and down the escalators, you can admire the unique design. Slightly past the metro station on the left is the Galeria d'Italia Napoli. The building used to be the headquarters of the Banco di Napoli, so some of the rooms will remind you of brick-and-mortar bank conference rooms and teller stations. The permanent exhibitions include Neapolitan paintings from the 17th to 20th century, a collection of ancient Greek and Roman pottery, and a selection of modern art. The bottom floor hosts temporary exhibits with differing themes; check the museum's website for current and upcoming displays.
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If you're getting hungry again, you will find a plethora of places to eat on the northern (right) side of the street going uphill. This is the famous Spanish Quarter, or Quartieri Spagnoli. Venture inside to find cozy trattorias and souvenir shops amongst the pedestrians and Vespas. Keep your eyes and ears open for the Vespas; some of the drivers are very aggressive. All of the restaurants in this area are authentic, but some will be more geared toward tourists than others. If there is a big English menu with lots of pictures, chances are the prices will be a little higher. The food will probably be really good, but I would personally be comfortable looking for another place. However, don't feel like you have to eat in the Spanish Quarter; there are plenty of options along this journey.
Finally, for any shopanistas in the group, there are plenty of stores along Via Toledo to satisfy their fashion needs. The prices are fair and any of the major brand stores will take credit cards. The sizes and cuts will be a little different than the US, but like in any other country they will probably have the right size for that piece you just HAVE to have.
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Once you've had your fill, continue down Via Toledo until you come out of the buildings into a large piazza.
Evening of Day 1: Piazza del Plebiscito and the Lungomare
This piazza is Piazza del Plebiscito, surrounded by the Royal Palace of Naples (Palazzo Reale) on one end and the Basilica di San Francesco di Paola on the other. This large square is the home of the largest gatherings in Napoli, from before the Royal Palace was constructed until today. While it was once used for public pronouncements from the Neapolitan rulers, now it hosts events like celebrations for SSC Napoli winning the Serie A championship or a Papal visit. However, you probably want to do something other than stand in the middle of a piazza for several hours.
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As previously mentioned, there are several sights ringing the piazza. The Royal Palace is open to the public most days and has been turned into a museum showcasing the royal apartments and grounds. Walking through the apartments takes at least an hour. The Basilica on the other end is impressive, but there isn't much to see. You will probably take longer walking across the piazza than walking through the Basilica itself. While impressive, it's a quick stop before you head to the next destination.
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Near the entrance of the piazza where Via Toledo begins are three other landmarks. First, Galleria Umberto I (which you actually passed earlier on Via Toledo) is an architectural masterpiece with delicate, airy ceilings and a few cafes for anyone who needs a quick espresso or cornetto (quick point: in France, it's a croissant; in Italy, a cornetto). Second is the Teatro di San Carlo, a beautiful opera house opened in 1737 that still hosts performances today. Well, maybe not today; you need to check the schedule if you want to go. Third, Gran Caffe Gambrinus is a well-established coffee house that gives the authentic Neapolitan coffee experience. The interior is ornately decorated while the outside allows you to watch the Neapolitan crowds hurry by while you enjoy your espresso. Be warned, this coffee house is the best known in Naples, so it will probably be crowded by the time you get there.
Finally, if you want to walk along the water, continue heading downhill to the Lungomare Caracciolo. You can join the crowds strolling and enjoying the sea breeze and the views of Vesuvio and the Bay of Napoli. On clear days you'll be able to see along the coastline south of Naples to Sorrento, then across the water to the Isle of Capri. At this point, if you haven't eaten already, it will probably be getting close to dinner time. Italian dinners normally start around 8 pm, but in the more touristy areas restaurants will be open earlier. I recommend finding a seafood restaurant or trattoria along the Lungomare for a proper Italian meal. These restaurants will be more expensive than the other areas you explored today, but the food options will be more than just pizza and pasta. Of course, if this isn't what you're looking for, head back up to Via Toledo and Quartieri Spagnoli. Prioritize a good meal and enjoying the evening instead of trying to make it to another major attraction (most of them will be closed around dinner time anyway).
Morning of Day 2: Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli (MANN)
To start day 2, we're going to head to the National Archaeological Museum. This museum has thousands of artifacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum, ranging from massive marble statues to delicate sculptures and frescoes. If you want to get an idea of the range of art from the famous ruins, this is the place for you. Quite frankly, this museum gets its own spot in the itinerary because it really is that impressive and worth the visit. That being said, the museum is very popular, so I recommend buying tickets ahead of time or getting to the museum as soon as it opens, which is 9 am for every day but Tuesday, when it is closed all day. It's easy to get to – hop on metro line 1 and get off at the Museo stop. It is right there. The museum can take two or three hours to fully explore, so pace yourself. Some exhibitions are sometimes not available; the famous fresco of Alexander and Darius I has been under restoration for over a year as of this writing. However, the majority of items and exhibits will be available, and it is absolutely worth checking out.
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This stop will take the great majority or all of the morning, so once you're done, it's time to go explore somewhere else. Fortunately, we're going to take the metro up the hill dominating downtown Napoli to check out Vomero.
Lunch and Early Afternoon of Day 2: Head to Vomero
Assuming you're leaving from the Museo metro stop, take Metro Line 1 toward Piscinola, and you will get off at Vanvitelli station. Once you leave the station, you will be in the Vanvitelli piazza, and it's probably time for lunch. Look downhill to the pedestrian street (Via Scarlatti); there will be several trattorias and pizzerias available. Don't walk too far downhill, because we will travel back up that hill to get to the next destinations.
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Vomero is one of the quieter neighborhoods of Naples, but that doesn't mean it doesn't have its own share of historical attractions, food, and shopping. It's defining feature is the Castel Sant'Elmo, which dominates the Vomero hill and oversees the entire city. If you travel uphill from Vanvitelli, up two sets of stairs, and wind your way following the signs, you will find the impressive fortress. This fortress was controversial when it was built, because it was the first star fort. However, this design became widespread throughout Europe as it offered superior protection to the surrounding area. You can get tickets at the entrance and walk through the castle at your leisure. The castle walls offer spectacular views over the entire city. Budget about an hour to explore the fortress area; fortunately our next attraction is next door.
The Certosa e Museo di San Martino is a former monastery located just below the Castel Sant'Elmo on the hillside, and you follow the same street past the castle to the Certosa. This building features remarkable Baroque architecture, religious art, and its own views of Napoli. Art history fans will probably enjoy this site more than the castle, but the two are close enough that visiting both spots is very easy. Additionally, just outside the Certosa is Belvedere di San Martino, a classic viewpoint overlooking the Centro Storico, Bay of Napoli, and Mount Vesuvius. This area is very popular, so you may have to wait your turn for a spot for a photo. While you're there, see if you can discern the Spaccanapoli knifing through the historic center or the Duomo peeking above the surrounding buildings.
Late Afternoon and Evening of Day 2: Choose Your Experience
For the late afternoon and evening, you can choose your preferred experience. The set of steps near Belvedere di San Martino will take you down to the beginning of Spaccanapoli – the downhill walk will take about 15 minutes. However, if you want a more laid-back experience, you can retrace your steps down to piazza Vanvitelli and Via Scarlatti. If you follow Via Scarlatti downhill three blocks you will find Via Luca Giordano, another popular pedestrian walkway in Vomero. There are shopping, cafes, and people watching available to finish off the day. For more options, check out our guide of what to do in Vomero.
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Additionally, if you want to explore an entirely new neighborhood, navigate to the Chiaia funiculare and take it down to the Chiaia neighborhood, another quieter, but elegant, area of Naples away from the hustle and bustle of Centro Storico. This neighborhood is more upscale, with high fashion stores and expensive dining options. You can explore the neighborhood and, depending on your style and/or budget, either find somewhere to eat in Chiaia or head toward the water (away from the hill) and the Lungomare.